To get the accessories I'm wearing, visit links below:
Black Bow Tie in Silk Faille Grosgrain Sized Butterfly: https://gentl.mn/2lH9gt5
Pocket Square with Monogram Initial Classic White Irish Linen: https://gentl.mn/2laHpn9
Today's video is about black tie, more specifically, black bow ties. I discuss the different kinds, weaves, shapes and which one is right for you.
SATIN - Satin is the most popular material of the bow ties because it's most often used for the facing of the lapel. Traditionally, you would match the material of the bow tie with the lapel facings. Satin is particularly popular for evening wear because it has this really nice luster that lets it sparkle and shine which is exactly what you want for an evening black tie outfit. There are different qualities, there is a warp satin, a weft satin and you can weave satin out of silk, silk blends or polyester.The best satins are made of a 100% silk and they're made in a warp weave.
Most bow ties you will buy will have an adjuster, that's because it's a one size fits all and easier for dealers to stock however, that's not what looks best on you. Adjustable bow ties always have metal clasps and if you wear a detachable collar like here, you can see that. Also, the length of the bow tie has to be matched to your neck size and at Fort Belvedere we carry all of our black bow ties in a fixed neck size so you look your best.
Bow ties come in different shapes therefore, we have the black satin bow tie in a traditional butterfly shape as you can see here. We have it with pointed ends for a more and usual look and we have it in a smaller shape as a single end bow tie, If you simply prefer a smaller bow tie or if you are a shorter guy. The first bow tie you should have is the butterfly bow tie because it's one of the most classic models and flatters 98% of all men.
Most bow ties come with two ends and you tie them and you see them and they're basically somewhat symmetrical. In the 1920s and 30s, particularly dapper men wanted to have a thinner layer of fabric and they came up with the idea of a single end bow tie.
BARATHEA - A little more matte and it's very popular in England. So if you don't like shiny silks, barathea is the way to go for you. Also if your lapels is made of a material that is not very shiny, a barathea is maybe preferable.
FAILLE / GROSGRAIN - Technically, they're different weaves but people use them interchangeably and so do we. Grosgrain is a type of poplin fabric and it has a ripped structure which is just very different than satin and much more rare therefore, if you want to be more extraordinary and want to mix up your black tie game, a grosgrain bow tie is a great investment.
MOIRE - has the effect of watered silk. It's simply a grosgrain weave, black fabric that is rolled with pressure in between two layers which creates this marvelous watered silk effect. We offer this bow tie as a single end bow tie in our shop.
SHANTUNG SILK - Also known as peony silk or raw silk and it is characteristic because of its knobs. Natural silk comes in filaments that are very thin and are of different thicknesses and when they're put together and twisted, you get a more regular yarn. Now, shantung silk is made intentionally irregular so you will see thicker knobs and thinner fabrics right next to each other creating a more casual, relaxed texture that goes well with dinner jackets and anything that is not super formal.
GRENADINE - Very unusual for black bow ties but it has a stronger texture and it's also a more casual option and favorited by younger people who want to make a strong fashion statement.
Another very traditional shape for bow ties is the so-called bats wing bow tie and it's characterized by its straight shape.The ends are oftentimes slightly curved because they're pulled in and it's not just a very sophisticated look in my book.
To sum it up, when it's your first bow tie, chances are, you want to have a satin silk bow tie, go with the butterfly if you don't have anything else however, if you're past that stage, you may want to mix up your black tie outfits.
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